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Frame up

Begin by cutting the main parts to size. Next, prepare a 1/4″-thick x 1/4″-wide, two-sided groove along the rear edge of each cabinet side. These grooves, called “rabbets,” are made to accept the plywood back panel that comes later. For now, sand all parts to 120-grit, and then begin assembly with the bottom, the two shelves and the two sides. As you can see in the plans, I spaced the shelves evenly, but choose whatever spacing suits you best. You could use biscuits to secure the shelves, but I used glue and #8 x 1 1/2″-long wood screws driven in through the sides. If you use screws, create counterbored holes for the screw heads so you can cover them later with tapered wooden plugs. Complete this first part of the assembly by fastening the top to the upper ends of the sides with more counterbored screws or biscuits.

Drawer and door

While this cabinet has a glass door that makes it easy to find things, there’s also an enclosed drawer that can stow items out of sight. Since this drawer is small and won’t hold much weight, simple butt joints are more than strong enough. I used 1/2″-thick, cabinet-grade plywood for the sides, front and back of the drawer. A 3/16″-thick plywood bottom panel fits into 3/16″-wide x 1/4″-deep grooves in the sides, front and back. Cut these grooves at the tablesaw or router table. Then, assemble the drawer with the bottom panel in place. I used glue and 18-gauge brads, but #6 x 1 1/4″-long wood screws work well too. Either way, attach the drawer glides and test the drawer in its opening with the drawer face left off. You’ll add the face later, during the final assembly.

Now, build the frame that forms the door. The vertical members are called “stiles,” and the horizontal ones are “rails.” I joined these parts with 3/8″-diameter x 1 1/2″-long dowels set in holes created with a dowelling jig. The stiles are narrow enough that the biscuits would protrude beyond the edges of the door, but that’s OK. Trim them flush after the door is assembled and the glue is dry.

To create, the rabbet to house the glass, set up a table-mounted router with a straight bit or bearing-equipped rabbeting bit and cut the 1⁄8″-deep x 1/4″-wide profile on the rear-facing, inside edges of the rails and stiles. The corners of the rabbets will be rounded, so square them off with a chisel so the glass can fit in. Bore holes in one stile for European cup hinges, and then install the door and make sure it swings properly.

For the leg assemblies, glue three pieces of the pine shelving together to make four 2 1/4″ x 2 1/4″ blocks each 8″ long. Taper the ends of the legs on their inside edges. A simple tapering jig for the tablesaw can be used, but a bandsaw also works well. Sand the legs using 80- then 120-grit abrasives, and then cut the skirt pieces and drill two counterbored holes for the #6 x 1 1/4″-long wood screws that fasten each skirt to the underside of the cabinet. Attach the legs to the skirts with more 3/8″-diameter x 1 1/2″-long dowels. Finally, screw the skirt-and-leg assembly to the base of the cabinet.

The Finale

Double-check the action of the door and drawer, then cut and attach a drawer face to fit over the drawer box before giving everything a final hand-sanding with 120-grit sandpaper. If you built your cabinet from a knotty softwood, as I did, paint the project with a resin-blocking primer to prevent resin from bleeding through the final finish. I applied two coats of coloured stain, followed by a protective topcoat of semi-gloss urethane. Once everything is dry, set the glass in place and secure it to the back of the door with mirror clips. Since the glass sits flush with the back face of the door frame, use the flat side of each clip against the glass. Finally, find and install cool-looking pulls for the drawer and door, and your job is done. Your cabinet is now ready to fill up with all the lotions and potions one could need in any bathroom.

Materials:

Part	Material	Size (T x W x L*)	Qty.

Sides	laminated pine	3/4″ x 15 1/4″ x 36″	2
Shelves/base	laminated pine	3/4″ x 14″ x 13 1/8″	3
Top	laminated pine	3/4″ x 16″ x 16″	1
Legs	laminated pine	2 1/4″ x 2 1/4″ x 8″	4
Skirts	laminated pine	3/4″ x 2″ x 10″	4
Back	plywood	1/4″ x 14″ x 36″	1
Door stiles	laminated pine	3/4″ x 1 7/8″ x 30 1/2″	2
Door rails	laminated pine	3/4″ x 2 1/2″ x 9 1/8″	2
Drawer sides	plywood	1/2″ x 4 1/2″ x 14 1/2″	2
Drawer back/front	plywood	1/2″ x 4 1/2″ x 11 1/8″	2
Drawer bottom	plywood	3/16″ x 11 5/8″ x 13 5/8″	1
Drawer face	laminated pine	3/4″ x 5 1/2″ x 13″	1
Door glass	glass	1/8″ x 9 5/8″ x 26″	1
Drawer glides	3/4 extension	14″	2
European cup hinges		120º inset	2

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step 1

step 2

step 2

step 3

step 4

step 4

step 5

step 5

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad Nailer

Lumber

1 scrap of 1×2 at least 25”
2 scraps of 1×4 at least 7-1/2”
Quarter sheet of 1/4″ plywood, lauan, or hardboard
One sheet of ¾” plywood

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” brad nails
Edge banding for plywood
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 39” – Sides
5– ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 25” – Shelves, Top & Bottom
2 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 33-1/4” – Dividers
1 – 1/4″ plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 26-1/2″ x 39″ – Back
1 – 1×2 at 25” – Trim
2 – 1×4 at 7-1/2” – Trim

Instructions

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save our plans, be sure to check back before starting your build, to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using.

Step 1

If using edge banding, apply to the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the shelves. Set two of the shelves aside for the cubbies and assemble the remaining two shelves with the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws as shown in the drawing.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the trim. Cut a decorative curve in the 1×4 pieces and attach to the 1×2 as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the 1×2 into the trim pieces.

Attach the trim under the bottom piece on the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the 1×2 into the bottom.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the back. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4

Cut the notches in the remaining shelves as shown. Attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Cut the notches as shown. Slide onto the shelves and attach to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired.

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Queen-sized Bed Frame

The bed’s side panels are made with 1⁄2″-thick maple-veneered plywood, the drawer boxes are 1⁄2″-thick “good two sides” softwood ply and the internal partitions are made of 1⁄2″-thick fir plywood. While it would have been simpler to build the bed’s base as a single unit, I decided to make two separate bases. As with many older houses, there’s not enough room to carry large pieces of furniture down the halls and into the rooms. Building in two sections also allows the bed to be broken down and transported more easily from my workshop 300 km away. The two base units are mirror images of each other. Each module is a low cabinet that contains drawers and supports the mattress. During final assembly, the head- and footboard join the two halves into one solid piece.

To retain the beautiful grain that flows the full length of the two maple-veneered plywood base side panels, I cut the drawer openings in each of the 20″-wide x 773⁄4″-long pieces rather than creating the sides piece by piece. You should end up with drawer-face pieces of wood that measure 233⁄4″ long and either 51⁄4″ or 63⁄4″ wide. Save these for use later as the drawer faces.

Drawer boxes are made of 1⁄2″-thick G2S fir plywood–butt-joined with glue and 11⁄2″-long finishing nails. The plans show how the maple-plywood drawer faces extend beyond the drawer boxes to hide the full-extension mechanical drawer slides. Your drawer boxes should be a total of 1″ narrower than the size of their drawer openings, allowing the standard 1⁄2″ of clearance required by most mechanical drawer slides. When you’re ready, fasten the drawer faces from inside the drawer boxes using #6 x 3⁄4″-long countersunk screws.

The drawer pulls are 1⁄2″-thick solid maple strips, with all outward-facing surfaces rounded over using a 1⁄4″-radius router bit. Cut each drawer-pull strip 21″ long, then round the ends. Use a 1⁄4″- or 3⁄8″-radius cove bit to rout finger grooves along the bottom front edges.

Build the Base

Eventually, the drawer slides need to mount on the 1⁄2″-thick fir-plywood vertical dividers that extend from top to bottom inside the bed base. There are six of these dividers for each of the two base units. All 12 measure 25″-wide x 191⁄4″-long, while the back base panels are 191⁄4″ x 771⁄4″. Cut these plywood parts now, then install pine strips around the perimeter of eight of the 12 vertical dividers. Use 3⁄4″ x 11⁄2″ pine for the horizontal edges, and 3⁄4″ x 3⁄4″ pine for the vertical ones. (See the plans for strip placement.)

Begin assembly of the two bases by joining one vertical centre strip to the back face of each side panel, and a corresponding vertical centre strip to the inside face of each of the back base panels. Use screws for this job. These strips provide a way to secure two vertical divider panels, one on each edge of the centre strips, to begin one of the base sub-assemblies. Attach two more vertical dividers to the inside faces of the side and back panels using glue and #6 x 11⁄4″ screws driven through those 3⁄4″ x 3⁄4″ pine strips you installed along the panel edges. Fasten the remaining vertical divider panels at the ends of the base side and back panels using glue and screws. Be careful not to let the screw tips penetrate the outer face of the base.

Later on, during final assembly, the large and small top pieces will cap the two bases and support the mattress. I had to make the top in two pieces because plywood doesn’t come large enough to cover the whole area on top of both bases. Use glue and screws to secure 3⁄4″ x 11⁄2″ strips of pine around the inside perimeter of the base units to provide support for the large and small top pieces. Mount these strips 3⁄4″ below the top edge of the base side panels, but flush to the top of the shorter back panels.

With the two base sub-assemblies taking shape, mount the drawers using mechanical slides. This job takes patience, but you’ll find the work easier if you cut spacers of 1⁄4″ plywood or hardboard to support the slides temporarily as you screw them to the vertical dividers. Most slides include oval holes that allow for up-and-down adjustment later.

Head and Footboards

These are made of maple-veneered ply and include solid-maple corner posts for good looks and durability. Cut the plywood parts now, then use your tablesaw to mill a 3⁄4″ x 3⁄4″ rabbet along one corner of the entire length of each of the 11⁄2″ x 11⁄2″ corner posts. Use a 1⁄4″ radius roundover bit on a table-mounted router to mill the other three corners.

Use glue and screws to secure the corner posts to the head- and footboards, then install the headboard cap and undercap. Trim the top and bottom edges of the side, foot- and headboard now using 5⁄8″ x 11⁄4″ maple. These pieces fit between the corner posts and look best with rounded outer edges.

Final Fit and Finish

It’s easiest to stain and varnish this project before assembly. I used a stain to match the aged maple floors in the house. Leave the insides of the drawers bare to avoid clothes picking up finishing odours while in storage.

Assembly of the complete bed components doesn’t take long. Set the two base units parallel to each other, with the footboard inside the ends of the base side panels. Position the headboard against the other ends of the base side panels, and then fit the corner posts against the butted ends of the sides, footboard and headboard. Draw everything together tightly with a rope or strap clamp, and then drill and countersink screw holes. A few screws driven from inside the base units to the headboard and footboard will tighten these parts.

Top it Off

Both 3⁄4″-thick plywood top pieces fit down flush inside the perimeter of the panels, resting on the 3⁄4″ x 11⁄2″ horizontal divider strips and the top edges of the vertical divider panels. Secure these pieces with #8 x 2″-long screws every 6″ to keep the bed quiet. You’ll find the plywood top pieces also square up the bases nicely. Finish up by making final adjustments to the drawer slides, and then set the mattress in place. Now, you have a place for a well-earned rest.

Making Adjustments

This bed is made to accommodate a standard 60″ x 80″ queen-size mattress, but length and width dimensions don’t tell the whole story. Mattress thickness is also a factor. The one I used here is 8” thick, and coupled with the 20″-high base, the top of the mattress sits 28″ off the floor–relatively high, as beds go. Some mattresses are even thicker, so take thickness into account as you plan your cutting. Shorten the base sides, drawers and footboard if needed.

This bed base has drawers on both sides–four per side, totalling eight–and, therefore, a lot of storage. Will you be placing one side of the bed against a wall? If so, make drawers on one side only.

While this was a queen-size project, yours might be fit for a king, double or two twins. The overall dimensions of the base allow the mattress to overhang each side by 1″, with another 1″ of overhang at the foot. If you modify the plans for another size of mattress, don’t forget the overhang. It makes it more comfortable to climb into and out of bed.

Materials:

Part	Material	Size (T x W x L*)	Qty.

Bed
Base side panels	maple-veneered plywood	1/2″ x 20″ x 77 3/4″	2
Base back panels	solid-fir plywood	1/2″ x 19 1/4″ x 77 1/4″	2
Footboard	maple-veneered plywood	1/2″ x 20″ x 55 1/2″	1
Headboard	maple-veneered plywood	1/2″ x 38″ x 56 1/2″	1
Large top	solid-fir plywood	3/4″ x 48″ x 55 1/2″	1
Small top	solid-fir plywood	3/4″ x 29 3/8″ x 55 1/2″	1
Vertical divider panels	solid-fir plywood	1/2″ x 25″ x 19 1/4″	12
Horizontal divider strips	pine	3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 25″	16
Horizontal centre strips	pine	3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 23 1/2″	8
Vertical divider strips	pine	3/4″ x 3/4″ x 16 1/4″	16
Vertical centre strips	pine	3/4″ x 3″ x 19 1/4″	4
Footboard corner posts	solid maple	1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ x 20″	2
Headboard corner posts	solid maple	1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ x 38	2
Side trim	solid maple	5/8″ x 1 1/4″ x 76 3/4″	4**
Footboard trim	solid maple	5/8″x 1 1/4″ x 55″	2**
Headboard cap	solid maple	3/4″ x 3/4″ x 60″	1
Headboard undercap	pine	3/4″ x 3/4″ x 54″	1

Bed Drawers
Small drawers sides	G2S*** fir plywood	1/2″ x 5 1/4″ x 24″	8
Small drawers ends	G2S fir plywood	1/2″ x 5 1/4″ x 22″	8
Large drawers sides	G2S fir plywood	1/2″ x 6 3/4″ x 24″	8
Large drawers ends	G2S fir plywood	1/2″ x 6 3/4″ x 22″	8
Drawers bottoms	G2S fir plywood	1/2″ x 22″ x 23″	8
Large drawer faces	maple-veneer plywood****	1/2″ x 6 3/4″ x 23 3/4″	4
Small drawer faces	maple-veneer plywood****	1/2″ x 5 1/4″ x 23 3/4″	4
Drawer pulls	solid maple	1/2″ x 1 1/4″ x 21″	8
Drawer-slide pairs	self-closing, full extension	24″-long	8
**Trim to fit
***Good two sides
****Cut from the base side panels

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step 1

step 2

step 3

step 4

step 5

step 6

step 7

step 8

Shopping List:

2 – 2×2 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1×4 @ 8 feet long
2 – 1×3 @ 8 feet long
2 – 1×12 @ 8 feet long
1 – ½ sheet ¾” plywood
2 – sets of basic hinges
2 – Drop Leaf Support 8 inch Pair
4 – 2″ caster wheels
1 1/4 inch pocket hole screws
wood glue
wood filler

Tools:

measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
Kreg Jig™
drill
circular saw
jigsaw
sander

Cut List:

4 – 2×2 @ 26 ¼”
2 – 1×4 @ 15 ¾”
4 – 1×3 @ 15 ¾”
2 – ¾” Plywood 15 ¾” x 28”
2 – 1×4 @ 28”
4 – 1×3 @ 28”
4 – 1×12 @ 42”

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain.

Step 1

Start by building two ends. Super easy. Keep the insides flush, hiding the 3/4″ pocket holes to insides, and joining with 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue.

TIP: Drill 3/4″ pocket holes facing upward on insides of top aprons for later attaching your tabletop.

Step 2

Drill 3/4″ pocket holes all the way around both shelves. Attach to legs as shown in diagram.

Step 3

Then add your side trim with 3/4″ PHs and 1 1/4″ PH screws, attaching the shelves also to the corresponding trim.

TIP: Drill 3/4″ pocket holes facing upward on insides of top aprons before attaching to table for later attaching your tabletop.

Step 4

What I actually did here was build my tabletop with a row of 3/4″ pocket holes/ 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws down the center (and glue) and attached to tabletop. Then I attached the two leaves, so the tabletop is a giant square. Then I drew out the arch shape I liked and cut with a jigsaw.

Be very careful to make sure your jigsaw blade isn’t beveling as it cuts the wood, and go slow. Use a very sharp, appropriate blade. And remember, you can always take more wood off later!

Step 5

For a more round table, you could do this way too.

Step 6

Sand edges as shown (optional)

Step 7

Add the caster wheels to bottom. I actually did the bolt kind – but a word of caution – I did have some trouble with my caster wheel bolt colliding with the pocket hole screws from the bottom shelf trim, so you may want to opt for the plate kind instead.

Step 8

These are called Drop Leaf Support 8 inch Pair and no, they are not rock solid, but they are plenty sturdy for our purposes and install in seconds! I recommend installing them about half way down the table apron – you may need to do a little trial and error to get things just right.

Finishing Instructions:

Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

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Dimensions:

Shopping List:

1 – 1/4 sheet of 3/4” hardwood plywood – or can use pine boards 1x8s for sides
2 – 1×2 @ 8 feet long
2 – 2×2 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1×4 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1×6 @ 3 feet long
1 1/4” and 2 1/2” PH screws

Tools:

measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
Kreg Jig™
drill
circular saw
sander
countersink drill bit

Cut List:

2 – 3/4” plywood 7 1/4” x 21” (could also use 1x8s for these)
4 – 1×2 @ 27 1/2”
4 – 2×2 @ 7 3/4”
2 – 2×2 @ 26”
2 – 2×2 @ 18”
1 – 3/4” plywood @ 29” x 21 1/2” (top)

DRAWER
2 – 1×4 @ 25”
2 – 1×4 @ 20”
1 – 1×6 @ 27 1/4”

Back is optional – 7 1/4” x 29”

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain.

Step 1
Start by attaching sides together with the four 1x2s. If you use pocket holes, keep to outsides for a stronger joint that will be hidden in later steps. CHECK FOR SQUARE!!!! Set aside.

Step 2
Now lets build the leg bases. Start by attaching the legs to front and back aprons.

Step 3
Then form your leg base by attaching the two side aprons.

Step 4
Now it’s time to attach the base to the drawer box. Easy stuff, just screws the base to the drawer box. We’ll leave the top off for now so we can reach in and get that drawer put on right.

Step 5
Build your drawer to fit – measurements given are “perfect case” measurements. Your drawer slides will require a clearance – most likely 1/2″ on each side for a total of 1″. Build your overall drawer width to the inside measurement minus drawer slide clearance. CHECK FOR SQUARE.

Step 6
Install the drawer in the cabinet, giving 3/4″ clearance to front for the false drawer face. Make sure it slides smoothly. You can shim the slides to get the drawer to slide perfectly.

Step 7
Attach the drawer face to the drawer, keeping an even 1/8″ gap on top, bottom and sides. TIP: Attach handles or knobs first unless surface mount to avoid having to get longer knob/handle bolts or boring out the inside drawer face to fit bolt head.

Step 8
Remove the drawer and attach the top to the base. Reinstall the drawer.

Step 9
The back is optional.

Finishing Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.